By Louie Ferrera
I’m sitting at the counter of Mac’s Deli & Cafe in downtown Santa Rosa and it feels just like I’m in a movie about a typical morning at an old-school diner.
My seat is a low, wicker- backed chair, the counter formica. Through the opening into the kitchen three cooks are visible from the chest up, young Latino men sweating from the heat of the grill. I watch them scurry about like soldiers in a small army. Every few minutes, one of the cooks places a plate on the counter and dings a bell, indicating that an order is up. The waitresses on duty today are in constant motion, either clipping yellow tickets to a chrome carousel or picking up food to bring to their hungry customers. I’ve always been in awe of the balancing act that waitresses perform in the course of their work, an act worthy of a circus side-show. I watch one of the servers place two huge plates brimming with food on her right arm and carry another equally heaped plate in her left hand. She glides effortlessly past me on her way to deliver the food. These waitresses are the same ones I usually see when I’m here. They all look to be early middle age, have ready smiles and carry themselves with the dignity and confidence that comes from years on the job. They call me “sweetie” and “hon” and that’s just fine with me.
Mac’s is a Santa Rosa institution, occupying the same spot on 4th Street since 1952. This place is one-of-a-kind in every sense of the word. Walking through the door at Mac’s is like entering a portal to a gentler, simpler time. The naugahyde upholstered booths, formica counter tops and tables with wicker-backed chairs are all circa 1970s. The decor is homey and unpretentious without looking shabby or outdated. Enticing aromas of fried potatoes and breakfast meat waft through the air, the gentle cacophony of clattering plates and friendly conversation is meditative and almost Zen-like. It’s a full sensory experience that immediately sets my mind at ease. I’m always greeted with a smile and feel welcome from the moment I walk through the door until the moment I pay my bill. The waitresses don’t carry those hand-held computers for you to put your credit card into where the first thing you see are the obnoxious “suggested” tip percentages. They actually write your order down on a small pad. You get a copy of the bill which you pay at the front register. There’s even a bowl of candies beside the register, you’re welcome to one on your way out.
Of course the reason to come to any restaurant is for the food and Mac’s delivers big time. They only serve breakfast and lunch, the portions are huge, the food delicious and unpretentious. There’s nothing chi-chi or nouveau about the cuisine, you won’t find a crab benedict or arugula salad on the menu here, just good, honest home-cooked food. The prices are more than reasonable too. The sandwiches are the main attraction at Mac’s. There are 47 different combinations to choose from. You want a sardine sandwich? They’ve got one. Pastrami and egg salad? Yep. The gargantuan, triple-decker turkey, ham and bacon club sandwich is three-inches high (I measured it) and a personal favorite. They use freshly roasted turkey breast for their sandwiches, not the deli turkey you get in most other places. Of course the breakfasts are magnificent too. The biscuits and gravy, pancakes, home fried potatoes and egg dishes of all types are fresh and filling. When you order toast, each plate comes with two half-ounce packages of Smucker’s jam; one strawberry the other blackberry, it’s just one of the many old school touches you’ll find at Mac’s. You’ve got to be hungry if you hope to clean your plate here.
The orchestrator of this whole show is owner/manager Toraj Soltani. He’s a compact, muscular fellow with a bald pate and an intense, no messing around look on his face. He wears shorts with an apron tied to his waist. Toraj means business but is also super welcoming; he knows many of his regular customers by name. His wife Lisa is co-owner and head waitress. If you looked in the dictionary under waitress you could very well find a photo of Lisa. Young daughter Tatum is hostess. It’s a family affair, there’s nothing corporate about Mac’s.
Mac’s Deli & Cafe is a certified gem and stands head and shoulders above the generic chain restaurants that dominate so much of our landscape. Whenever I dine here I feel a deep gratitude for having such a unique place right here in my community.